![]() ![]() ![]() The majority of the time I will keep my line width the same as my nozzle diameter, unless instructed otherwise. The vast majority of printers ship stock with a 0.4mm nozzle, meaning your line width should be within 10-20% of 0.4mm. Line Width: Your line width is dependent on your nozzle diameter and can affect the tolerances of your X and Y axis. ![]() No extra material will be used, but it will take a lot longer to complete. Anything lower than 0.16mm would be considered “high quality”, and anything higher than 0.2mm would be considered “draft quality.”Īll other things being equal, a print with a layer height of 0.1mm will take twice as long to complete as a print with 0.2mm layer heights, since it requires twice as many layers. In general a layer height of 0.2mm would be considered “standard” for 3D prints, with some people preferring 0.16mm. The smaller the layer height, the more layers your print will require to complete, and the more detail that you can achieve. Layer Height: A 3D print can only be as detailed as your layer height when referring to the Z-axis. Quality can refer to a lot of things, but I will be focusing on the two most important: layer height and line width. Individual designers have figured out the best settings for their design based off of extensive beta testing, and they may have found methods to save on material and weight that does not require the high settings I mention. I will go over infill and shell walls and other important strength settings, but if your particular build guide calls for different settings than what I mention, follow those. While I cover many important settings below, make sure you never stray from the build guide, particularly if you are new to this hobby. I suggest checking out both Cura and PrusaSlicer and to use whichever you find mos intuitive. I personally prefer Bambu Studio as my favorite slicer, but when I am not using a Bambu Lab printer, I choose to use Cura due to my years of experience with the interface. For instance, the popular Bambu Lab printers use “Bambu Studio” as their slicer, and even though I really like that slicer, it is based on PrusaSlicer. Many printer companies have attempted to make their own slicer, but the vast majority of these are just modifications of those two options. There are essentially a half-dozen slicing software programs that are used daily by most makers, with the two most popular being Cura by Ultimaker and PrusaSlicer by Prusa. Due to lack of updates, free and open source programs have certainly surpassed Simplify 3D in user base. Five years ago, the paid program called “Simplify 3D” reigned supreme. Over the years what is the preferred slicer software to use by makers has definitely changed. Once you get into “expert” or “advance” mode on your slicer, you will surely be overwhelmed with the numerous options available. Unfortunately, this is not ideal for printing a strong and clean firearm. Most programs attempt to have an “easy” or “basic” mode where you just select a couple of items for your print. One of the largest barriers to entry in 3D printing can be just how overwhelming the slicing software can be. ![]()
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